Woodland Caribou Provincial Park 2022 Solo Trip
Planning
Last minute stuff
I planned on leaving from my cabin in NW
Minnesota on May 31 for Bisset Manitoba where I had a flight
scheduled for 2 PM. My cabin on the Roseau River was also
experiencing some flooding. The day before I loaded everything in
my truck as it had to be parked out on the road due to the flooding.
I went through my final checklist and made sure I had all my
documents I would need to get across the border. The plan was to
leave at 6 AM which would give me plenty of time to make the 4-5
hour drive. The forecast for tomorrow was not good as a big weather
system was making its way through. This same weather system would be
with me for the next 4 days.
Day 1
The weather
I got on the road right at 6, however the weather was living up to
the forecast. It was raining and the wind
was gusting at 40 plus mph. I thought I had the canoe tied on good
but I had to stop several times to adjust it before I made it to the
border. The border crossing was uneventful other than I did not need
to show them my CanPass or Covid Card, only the passport. I assume
they already had all that on their computer screen. After gettingwaved
through I
pulled over in one of the inspection stalls to further secure the
canoe. Reports of 60+ mph winds were not exaggerated. I was
quartering into the wind for the next 25 miles and had to stop
several more time to adjust the canoe. Once I turned eastward and
out of the open Red River Valley into more sheltered areas things
got better despite no letup in the wind gusts.
After checking back in with Tanya I headed over to the B&B. I would be flying out at 8 AM or a soon as the Otter that was coming from Lac du Bonnet arrived. The B&B was nice. I had a whole bunkroom to myself. Bisset was a gold mining town and there were some history books telling that story. It was quite interesting in how the town has survived after the gold ran out. The mine is still open but they are only processing the tailings from the past. I rechecked all my gear one last time and then off to bed early.
Day 2
Takeoff….finally
I slept well but was up before my alarm
went off. Hopefully this would be the big day I would finally get
underway. Lek had breakfast ready at 6 AM and it was awesome.
Pancakes, bacon, sausage, eggs and fruit. That would be my last meal
until late in the afternoon. I checked in at Bluewater and it
looked like things were still on schedule. There was some sun and
the winds had calmed down a bit. Soon the canoe was tied on and we
were all set to go, right on schedule. It was fun to fly over the
route I took in 2018 when I went from Wallace Lake to Artery Lake
and back via the Wanipigow and Broadleaf rivers. We landed at
Jackson’s outpost. The group staying there was getting ready to go
out fishing so I talked to them for a while. They said the rail
portage that gets you from lower Artery to upper Artery Lake was
underwater. They had not been able to get their boats to the upper
part of the lake. They suggested that I portage through the woods on
the south side of the falls. They had looked at doing that but
didn’t think they could wrestle their big boats across that point.
They said I should be able to get my canoe across. The Otter taxied
out and was taking off. That is always an incredible feeling as you
watch it fly off over the trees. My thoughts quickly turn to
getting underway as the clouds are darkening and the wind is
starting to pick up.
I make it to the south side of rapids
into lower Artery. The Bloodvein River which flows through Artery
Lake is about a half mile wide here. At first, I thought I could
catch and eddy and make through but that was a no go and an unneeded
risk as the bushwack portage across was only 30 yards or so with
good landings on both sides. After crossing, I went a short way to
where there were a couple of campsites. One was under water but the
other one was nice but not quite as sheltered from the wind. I get
the tent set up quickly as it looks like a few rain squalls are in
the works. That would be the story for the next couple days. It
would look ok, then dark clouds, strong wind gusts and some light
wind driven rain. High temps in the lower 40s. I set up camp, cut
wood, fished a little from shore. I had to keep moving to stay warm,
then crawl in the tent when the rain started. Later that evening
when things calmed down, I took the canoe and tried fishing along
the shoreline near camp. Not much luck, only a
couple small northerns. I was in the tent early. It had been a long
day, mostly stuck onshore….but I was finally here, I let that sink
in as a I drifted off to sleep.
Getting loaded up at Bluewater Aviation
The view from above Atikaki Provincial Park
Artery Lake, Loaded and ready to go
Normally the portage is way out there. I bushwack around the south side.
The other side, Upper Artery Lake
Camp is set up before the rain moves in
Tucked in and ready for a cold night
Day 3
Windy and wet
after 5 AM and I am up early. It is still breezy out,
there is some blue sky but the forecast is for on and off rain
showers. The same as yesterday only a little more rain midday and
the wind is not letting up, especially when the rain squalls came
through. I decide to stay put. I explored the shoreline, gathered
wood, fished from shore and later that evening fished from my canoe
as the winds died down and a little sun peaked through. I had
decided I was moving on tomorrow as the forecast was looking better
but not great. Tenative plan was to get to the east end of Artery
lake and camp on the portage if it was not underwater. I had been
this way in 2015 so I kinda knew what to expect. I enjoyed a nice
warm fire as the day faded away. The forecast was for mid 20s so I
put on and extra warm layer before crawling in the sleeping bag.
Making l
Day 4
Paddling again
The sun was out and the wind was light when I got up. I wanted an early start as I figured it would like be the best part of the day weatherwise. A quick breakfast and I was on the way. It was cold out but I quickly warmed up as I paddled east. It felt good to be paddling again. Base camping is not my thing although I was planning on taking it slower this timebut now I needed to put some water behind me. Artery lake narrows down into the Bloodvein. There was some current but not bad as the high water had overflowed into adjacent wetlands and it was much wider than I remembered. However it narrowed way down just before you get to the pictos and the current became very strong. I backed out and came back up along the edge using the eddy to get me through the little swift. The picto mural was next. I had seen these in 2015 but the water was much higher this time. I spent a little time here before moving on. Another mile or so and I am at the north falls out of Mary’s Lake into Artery Lake. The portage is under water but the campsite here is high and dry. I stop here to take a break. I try a little fishing at the bottom of the rapids and on my first cast yields a pretty nice northern. I have a snack and head out to fish a little. On my paddle to the other falls I troll and catch 3 more northerns, all over 30”. I am not able to get into the bowl that the south falls empties into as the current is too strong flowing out. I decide to head back to the north falls and set up camp. I catch a couple more 30+ inch northerns on the way back. As I approach the campsite I see someone carrying a canoe through the burned out woods, then another. I as I come ashore there are 5 souls and I think I recognize them. While planning my trip, Facebooks algorithms placed this groups Facebook post in my feed. A group of young adults going from their backyard in Kenora to Hudson Bay, lead by a person named Emma. I think we were both surprised to see each other. When they said they were headed from Kenora to Hudson Bay I said you must be Backyard Beginnings. They were really surprised I had heard about them. I knew we would possibly be crossing paths about the same time but never expected to meet them. They started a fire and cooked up a quick meal of potato soup and shared a cup with me. We had a good chat while we shared a meal. Their trip had been really hard so far. Record high waters on the English River system. Flooded and burned portages and campsites. Cold, wet and windy…..a really tough start to their summer long trip. Soon they were on their way. I set up camp and then went back out fishing and try catch some walleye for supper. My walleye rig kept on catching big northerns…27 to 35 inch range. In the next few hours I was only able to catch 2 walleyes among the dozen or so big northerns. Walleye and mashed potatoes for supper and a warm fire on a cold night. Despite some sunshine today it did not get much over 40 with some light showers. Another subfreezing night was in store. I was tired tonight and sleep came quick.
Sharing lunch with the crew from Backyard Beginnings
Emma and her crew
Day 5
Let’s go fishing
The day breaks with lots of sunshine….
The only cloud in the sky happens to be between me and the sun and
they stay synced up through the early morning. I have a small solar
panel and with all the clouds so far, I am getting behind
on charging my battery packs. I’m not in too big of a hurry to get
going this morning. My breakfast have been some Costco Bisconies
with hot tea. They are a little sweet but pack a lot of calories and
are so good, especially with hot tea. Breakfast is enjoyed next to a
warm fire. Firewood is very plentiful. Yet I am very careful, as you
can see in the pictures there are lots of dead jackpine with needles
still attached in the burned areas. They burn like
gasoline. Despite lots of burned out areas, there is a lot of dead
fuel left behind in the lightly touched areas as you can see in the
pictures below. I fished all day with a break for some more walleye
shore lunch. The big northern fishing is about as good as it gets
however nothing bigger than 40”. Mostly in the 30-35 inch range. I
didn’t keep count but probably about 15 over 30” today in 8 hours of
fishing. I did manage a couple more walleyes for lunch. The water
temp was 52 degrees, a bit cold for a good walleye bite. It was
mostly cloudy with a light shower or two and a few periods of sun. I
did have an equipment mishap late in the day. I do not bring a net
so I try not bring the big fish into the canoe and I try release them
alongside the canoe. I had a bigger northern on that would just
not play out enough to get hold of her to unhook a Rapala
and she was too wide in the shoulders to get a good grip on her. So
I grabbed the leader and hauled her into the canoe. I had also
forgot to clear out the area in front of me. Mayhem in the canoe as
soon as she hit the deck. I was watching the Rapala closely to make
sure I didn’t get hooked up while trying to grab her. I finally
managed to get things under control, get her unhooked and back in
the water. As I am getting things sorted out in the canoe, I
suddenly realize my walleye rig (St Croix rod) is missing. It must
have gotten tossed over in the mayhem. Oh well, nothing I can do
about that now. That is exactly why I do not like bringing big fish
in a canoe. Back at camp, a warm fire, a daily ration of bourbon
and a relaxing evening. I am starting to get into a rhythm and the
weather is improving a little every day. I debate packing up in the
morning and moving on or spending another day fishing. I decide to
take advantage of the good fishing. The sun sets at 9:30 and I hit
the sack.
Lots of action all day long
Continued-Part 2
I hope you enjoy the virtual trip. Feedback is always welcome. I can be contacted via email at bill@hobbydog.net